A couple months ago the urge to take a surf trip was building and the queen of the coast was calling. So I loaded up the quiver, camping gear, and cooler for the weekend and headed for Rincon.
The forecast was looking good but nothing was guaranteed. On Friday the queen wasn’t to welcoming. It was decent size but lumpy with a horrible side/onshore wind and a bit of rain. I decided to paddle out thinking “I’m here so,might as well.” After 45 minutes of flailing around in the crappy conditions the tail of my board and fin hit me in the face, cutting me just above the eye, putting the cherry on top and an end to this miserable session. It was back to the campsite where it would continue to rain all day and night.
Saturday was a new day and one for the memory books. I awoke to sunny skies and calm wind, finally I could dry out a little. I headed back to Rincon for another go. Upon arriving I learned today was the Rincon Classic Contest. Now the contest was taking up half the point so if I wanted to surf I had to do so with hundreds of my best friends crammed into the cove. The surf was nothing like Friday, it was 4-5 foot, glassy with a slight offshore wind, and running for hundreds of yards from the top of the cove all the way to the highway. The crowd wasn’t going to keep me out of the water with that surf on offer. So I threw on my wetsuit and grabbed my 5’9” Sculpin with a set of quad fins that have a decent amount of rake. The Sculpin with this fin set up has an incredible amount of down the line speed. I wanted that down the line speed because I’ve found when surfing a crowded point break with people are burning each other left and right the best way to not get burnt is to be going so fast that people hesitate before dropping in on you for fear of a high speed collision. My strategy paid off and I spent the afternoon doing laps. Flying down head high peelers from the top of the cove to the highway then walking back to the top of the point while my legs were still burning from the last wave. I finished the trip off with a pint at rincon brewery and relaxing by the fire back at camp.